Blogs

The Fat Duck

1 High Street 

Bray

SL6 2AQ

I’ve been on Google maps and ‘virtually’ stood outside the Fat Duck on more than one occasion. I’d noted the unassuming frontage but was still surprised at quite how understated the building was in ‘real life’. As we entered, the tall members of our group had to stoop to avoid knocking their heads on the low doorframe and aged beams. The room was cosy and charming but entirely devoid of a lavish touch. An impeccably presented French waiter showed us to our table. 

The room housed just a dozen tables all well spaced and dressed in white. The chairs were simple and old fashioned upholstered in mustard leather. The room was far from luxurious with a single vase of orchids bringing a touch of opulence to an otherwise blank space. The lack of music and murky grey carpet meant there were no distractions. The food was going to do all the talking.

Some of my earliest memories revolve around a bowl of bread dough. My dutiful mother baked bread on an open fire from as early as I can remember, she was always grateful for some help and taught my sisters and me how to perfect the art when we were very young. Baking bread in a kitchen with all the mod cons is quite a feat, baking bread with nothing but a stainless steel bowl and a cast iron bastable is another thing altogether. I remember my mum telling me when I was about 6 or 7 that each time you knead the dough you press a little bit of love into it and as the dough rises the love expands.

I've always cooked the old fashioned way, with a hand whisk, a wooden spoon and mixing bowl, but recently I invested in a Kitchen Aid so wanted to try making something new. I’d had freshly baked brioche from bakeries in France, but never seen it in the UK. It’s a light buttery bread that’s somewhere between bread, cake and croissant in its flavour and style. It has a golden crust and the baked dough comes apart in gentle reams when you pull at it. It’s slightly sweet and can be eaten with jam but is also wonderful with pâtés and other savoury dishes as well as on its own. I’d never attempted to make it before, as it sounded quite complex and recipes tend to revolve around a Kitchen Aid.

The Square
www.squarerestaurant.com
Address: 6-10 Bruton Street, Mayfair
Chef/owner: Philip Howard
Michelin Stars: 2

The Square has been at the top of my “I want to go” list for a long time, second only to Noma. People often ask: “Why The Square? Why not The Fat Duck? Or The Waterside Inn?” I didn’t just pick The Square out of a hat, oh no. Many years ago I saw Philip Howard create a breath taking dish from the simplest, seasonal ingredients, during a rare TV appearance. I wandered why I’d not heard of this chef before, and where he worked, moments later I had my answer: He jointly owns The Square, and I hadn’t heard of him because he spends most of his time where all chefs should - in the kitchen.